Romeiko: The Old Becomes New

From ancient times until today, especially in the prefecture of Chania in Crete, both locals and visitors have almost certainly tasted wine made from the Romeiko grape variety, whether at a local festival or a wedding.

But why do so many people hesitate at the idea of drinking a large amount of it, or even trying a wine made from this variety?

Marouvas: The Legacy of Romeiko

Aged wine made from Romeiko, known as Marouvas, was a symbol of social and economic prosperity. At the same time, it was associated with a local tradition according to which, when a child was born, the family filled a barrel with Marouvas, sealed it, and opened it on the child's wedding day, many years later.

In the Chania region, and particularly in the area of Kissamos, Romeiko remains one of the oldest and most widely planted red grape varieties.

The famous Marouvas is an oxidatively aged red wine produced through spontaneous fermentation from the Romeiko grape variety. From ancient times until today, it has been traditionally produced by both winemakers and local families in Kissamos and other villages of Chania.

Wines of this style are characterized by a strong oxidative character, high alcohol levels, and a rustic taste developed through long ageing in barrels that have been used many times. Its aromatic profile is often compared to that of Madeira wines because of its oxidative aromas and high alcohol content. The difference, however, is that the high alcohol level in Marouvas is produced naturally during fermentation, whereas in Madeira wines it is achieved by adding alcohol.

Main Characteristics of the Variety

Romeiko is a grape variety that is prone to oxidation due to its low acidity and the low concentration of anthocyanins in its berries. As a result, it produces wines with unstable colour, making it necessary to pay particular attention to the winemaking techniques used, as well as to the amount of oxygen the wine is exposed to.

Romeiko Today

In recent years, however, the winemaking of Romeiko has changed significantly.

Thanks to the efforts of several winemakers in Chania, it has been proven that this variety is capable of producing much more than the traditional, heavily oxidative wines of the past. Today, it can also produce elegant white, rosé, orange and even sparkling wines. White wines made from Romeiko show rich aromas of lemon, pear, peach, white flowers, bergamot and, when the fruit is fully ripe, even melon. Rosé wines display delicate aromas of strawberry and cherry which combine pleasantly with their medium body, moderate acidity and a light oily texture, making them an excellent choice.

It is also important to mention the production of sweet wines from sun-dried Romeiko grapes, which represent an important part of the winemaking and cultural heritage of Crete, especially the prefecture of Chania.

So why does this variety still create such confusion when there are so many different ways to vinify it and produce such a wide range of wine styles?

Although there is currently no PDO designation for Romeiko, anyone visiting Chania should definitely taste a wine made from this variety, whether in its traditional style or in one of its modern expressions. It is certain to be a pleasant surprise.